Southern Kyoto
Cherry Blossoms in Southern Kyoto
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha)
While in Kyoto I hope to have some time to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社, Fushimi Inari Taisha), which rests on Mount Inari. Inari is the Shinto god of Rice, which is very very symbolic in Japan. The fox is thought to be the messenger of Inari, so many fox statues can be found around the shrine as well. The Shrine's official website can be found here, but will require some translating to understand. Nonetheless the galleries on the website are beautiful and worth looking through. Japan-guide.com ranked the shrine a "best of best" attraction in Japan. Users also ranked is "highly recommended" with a rating score of 95 out of 100.
Inari, Shinto God of Rice
Inari Fox Statues
The Fushimi Inari Shrine is also famous for its mountain paths and thousands of torii gates lined up that are pictured below. These gates mark the Shinto transition from the "profane" to the "sacred" and are found at most Shinto Shrine entrances. (More on the profane-sacred dichotomy can be found here, while a diagram outlining torii parts and ornamentation can be found here.)
path leading through torii gates
two rows of torii gates
large torii gate in front of the Romon Gate at the shrine's entrance
Many visitors come to walk the mountain paths that are lined with many many torii gates that anyone can sponsor to build. The names of the sponsors are painted on the side of the gate (seen in the top picture above). Most people stop at the Yotsutsuji intersection, which is halfway to the mountains peak to get a nice view of Kyoto which is pictured below.
visitors resting at the Yotsutsuji intersection
I plan to hike the mountain paths and get a great view of Kyoto. I enjoy hiking and find walking through nature to be very relaxing. It is also where I do my best thinking, which will allow me to gain some native inspiration for my research project while learning more about Japanese culture.
Luckily for me the shrine is always open, has no closing days, and is free, so the only funds I will need will be food, transportation to the shrine, and maybe a few yen for some souvenirs of gifts for my host family if they are being sold there.
Traveling the Kansai Region
How To Get There
Fushimi Inari Shrine is located just outside JR Nara Line, which is the red line coming out of the the bottom right of Kyoto station. JR Inari Station is the second station from Kyoto Station along the JR Nara Line. It should be about 5 minutes one way and cost 140 yen each way from Kyoto Station (total travel time: 10 minutes; total travel costs: 280 yen). Pictured below is a map of the transit lines in Southern Kyoto.
All of this travel, hiking and sightseeing will most likely make me very hungry so I plan make a stop for some good food as well.
Food!
If I am hungry before I leave for the Fushimi Inari Shrine then I will grab a bite to eat from within Kyoto Station.
I can choose from many options there but I'll narrow it down to two major options. One being the Isetan Department Store. It is open from 10:00 - 20:00, with its restaurants staying open longer. the store is ten stories tall and has fresh food and a notable amount of restaurants to choose from on its 11th floor.
Isetan department store in Kyoto Station
I could also choose to eat at the Porta Underground Shopping Mall. This mall has over 100 stores and restaurants and is open from 10:00 - 20:00 (20:30 on Fridays and Saturdays). The underground mall would provide a larger variety than the Isetan Department Store and would be a smart option if the weather bad.
the many restaurants that can be found in the Porta Underground
I think that it will be a spur of the moment decision as to which i decide to find a meal at, but both are smart and affordable options that include a large variety of restaurants and cuisines.
After visiting the shrine, I plan to splurge a little on dinner. I have heard about Kawayuka (or as it is called outside of Central Kyoto, Kawadoko). This is is the summer past time of dining outdoors on platforms built over flowing water. This sounds like a very cool and unique experience, that I plan to take advantage of during my stay in Japan.
Kawayuka over the Kamogawa River in Pontocho
The most famous area to experience kawayuka is along the Kamogawa River in central Kyoto, especially around Pontocho. Many places serve kaiseki meals, which cost around 15,000 to 40,000 yen per person ($200 to $500 in the US) more on these traditional multi-course meals can be found here. I plan on going with a little cheaper of an option that than and plan on opting for bento, which would cost around 2,000 to 5,000 yen (or $20 to $50 in the US). These meals are still good quality, and a MUCH less expensive than kaiseki meals, plus the atmosphere over the river can't be beat! Most places are open from 17:00 to 23:00, making this dinner my evening activity as well as a meal.
Transportation to Pontocho wouldn't necessarily involve going back to Kyoto Station, but wouldn't be too tricky either! I would have to take a the same railway as before (the JR Nara Line) to the Tofukuji Station (the first station out from Kyoto Station) to transfer onto the Keihan Railways line. Then take the Keihan Railways line to the Gion-Shijo Station (the third stop) to Pontocho. The time should be about 20 min with the costs sitting at around 500 yen each way (total travel time: 40 minutes; total travel costs: 1000 yen).
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All in all I anticipate this to be a fun filled day, but a tiring one!
Hickey-san,
ReplyDeleteWhat a shame that no one has commented on your itinerary yet. You did a fantastic job of digging up detailed information about the Fushimi Inari Shrine and the dining possibilities.
First, I am amused by the fact that once again someone has chosen something that I've thought about doing many, many times, but have never actually done. For me, the "issue" with Fushimi Inari is that it's on the way to Nara, and I have always been very eager to get to Nara when I'm in the Kyoto area. Also, although I have an appreciation for Shinto, I am especially drawn to Buddhism, Buddhist temples, and Buddhist art. Thanks to your enthusiastic discussion, however, I will try to finally visit Fushimi Inari instead of just passing it on my way to Nara.
Your discussion of dining possibilities is right on target. Restaurants in department stores, often located on the top floor, tend to be moderately priced and very accessible, with language practically a non-issue, as they have food models on display. Restaurants in malls are also quite accessible. However, I hope that you will also try a more run-down place at least once. These often have the best cheap food.
Your discussion of kaiseki made me quite nostalgic for the few times I've been treated to it (no way I can afford it myself). But I'm glad that you found the option of getting a bentou, and I hope that you will actually be able to try it. Pontocho is one of the old "entertainment" districts of Kyoto (i.e., there were "tea houses" with geisha there).
The Gion-Shijo station is a great one to use. The Gion district is still a geisha district, with beautiful and mysterious geisha houses throughout the neighborhood. "Shijo" translates as something like "Fourth Avenue," and near the Kamogawa (Kamo River) it is full of all kinds of interesting shops selling traditional Kyoto products, such as crafts and elegant candies. Shijo ends at Yasaka Shrine, which is a great example of a "people's" shrine. Whenever I visit Kyoto, I walk from Kiyomizudera (Kiyomizu Temple) to Yasaka Shrine, through some incredibly beautiful neighborhoods. Anyway, as you can see, you've evoked some great memories, and even regrets!
The shrine looks so beautiful! I've tried similar trips myself in China, but the temples I visited were primarily Buddhist. The views look to be beautiful from the photos, though I'm sure seeing them in person will be incomparably better. Your plan to have kawayuka makes me jealous! I personally thought of Shinjuku Isetan and the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden to find this sort of balance between an urban setting and a quiet place with nature, but I think your plan sounds like it balances the two even more. I hope you have a great time, and that any exhaustion is of the kind from a day well spent!
ReplyDeletethat shrine looks beautiful and the pictures are great! it looks like a lot of fun
ReplyDeleteThe various pictures of Mount Inari, from the mountain paths to the statues and the Fushimi Inari Shrine, are all breath-taking. And as long as you don't try to rush and just take move at a leisurely pace while taking in the sights, if you feel any exhaustion at all from all the walking and hiking, I'm sure it'll be the kind that feels rewarding rather than taxing. - Jeffrey
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